Biased About Bias

Just popping in on a quick break from my coat to preview the Ms Style Book that I just received in the mail last Thursday.

I haven't gone through it all yet, but as usual there is a lot of inspiration/eye candy. This one in particular caught my eye. On its face it looks like a plain jane sheath, good for throwing on at the last minute with some nice heels and a handbag and heading out to work on those "I don't have anything to wear and I'm late" days. But look at the draft! Very interesting! Straight grain for the left panel, bias for the middle panel, and cross grain for the right panel. I can see some really cool effects with a subtly (or not-so-subtly) textured woven. Of course, a plaid or stripe or symmetrical print would really pop.

Back to the coat muslin...

From Japan with LUV!

Just after Easter I received some Japanese pattern books & mags. I LUV LUV LUV the Pattern Magic books and will have to find a way to incorporate some of the very innovative styling into my projects. The mags, entitled Female, feature styles that are a bit too jeune for a thirty-um-sumthin like me, but there were a few things that caught my eye:

I always like these high-neck designs, but, alas, I do not have the Victorian-esque swan-like neck required to really carry them off very well.
I think the print used for this one is outstanding. I also like the use of darts and tucks to really define the waist.

These two are a variation on a single theme. One in a great textural fabric for the office and the other lengthened and flared for a nice outerwear garment.

Finally, I was planning to make a nightgown out of cotton lawn using Simplicity 3799 in anticipation of the inevitable dog days of summer here in Texas. Then I saw this in the Winter 2008 issue of Female:
With this surprise design element at the back: So, after I finish my nightgown and if all goes well with the Simplicity pattern, I think I will use the pattern drafting instructions for the back of the model in Female and morph it to the Simplicity for a cute, breezy summer frock. I have some cotton gauze in a print and coordinating solid from Joann's that might be just the ticket. Here's the draft from Female:

Look What the Easter Bunny Brought Me Today

I was out of town this weekend, so the Easter Bunny left me a note saying that I could wait for redelivery or call for pickup. Of course, I had to call and go pick it up on my lunch hour today!

First the story ….The summer after my freshman year in college, I worked as the Nature Instructor for a posh summer camp in the mountains of the Sierra National Park far, far away from all signs of civilization (okay, about 60 miles north of Fresno). The money was a pittance – we figured that we were making something like $0.60/hour – but I really liked working with the kids and camp staff, and being out in nature. Besides, how many students actually get a paying job (other than fast food or retail) after freshman year? Anyway, I really enjoyed meeting counselors and instructors from all over the world. Over the years a few of us have kept in touch from time to time and last year I got back in touch with a friend M in Japan via email. I probably randomly mentioned – as I am wont to do – that I wanted to learn Japanese pattern drafting technique at some point and that I was collecting all kinds of goodies in preparation. I used to have a Mrs. Stylebook subscription (you can get it at Sasuga Books), and I have some magazines and books that I found through various online sources (mostly eBay), but I’ve never tried my hand at drafting anything.

The Japanese technique really piques my interest because it seems similar to what tailors and seamstresses do back home in Nigeria. There you just go to the market and pick out a fabric. Gorgeous Swiss laces which are sold by the yard, batik- or tie-dyed cotton brocades sold whole to make a bubu, or in various matched sets of 3+3 yards for a top & bottom, or Dutch waxes and java prints with either traditional or modern motifs sold in 6 yard pieces. Then you take your fabric to the tailor (usually in the same market) and describe the type of garment you want, or pick a style from the ubiquitous picture books available in the tailor’s stall, or (best of all) rely on the tailor’s experience to design something suited to your figure, style, and the occasion. He will quickly take your measurements, and in a week’s time you’ll have an extremely well-fitted, sewn garment to take home with you!

This is what my Aunt’s tailor whipped up for me last year and I wasn’t even there!

He keeps my measurements on file and sews with 2 inch allowances in case I have to get it amended here in the U.S.

Okay, okay … so look what the Easter Bunny (a.k.a. M) sent me:


Wooo hooo! Pattern Magic vols. 1 & 2; Female, Winter 2008; and Female, Spring 2008! I'll post some pics from Female next time - I've already got a few marked in the Winter Collection.

For now -- Thanks M! And Happy Easter to the rest of you!