In Process: CWS Muslin 2 or "I think I'm just a glutton for punishment"

Okay, here's muslin 2 of BWOF 08-2007-126, my chosen victim pattern for my classic, crispy white shirt.

Muslin 2:

I started with the size closest to my high bust measurement to get the fit in the neck and shoulders. Of course, I failed to take into account that I needed room for my hips & waist. Then I did a humongo FBA to add 2.5 inches to each side for the “Girls.” That’s a total of 5 inches right?!? More on that revelation later. As previously noted, the dart is humongo, so rotated about half of it out to the side seam. That added enough room for my waist and hips (per the flat pattern measurements I did). Woo hoo! However, the dart was still humongo. Just as I was about to cut out the muslin, I realized I hadn’t done anything to the back to account for the extra length & width added to the front, so I cobbled something together for that. Then I decided to worry about the swayback/tilted waist/sloping shoulders thing later. Just a note, the bust dart is still humongo. Now, completely tired of RIMMing (redrafting in my mind), I decided to take a go at sewing it up. My friends, may I present, umm, Muslin 2:





Clearly more RIMMs needed!

RIMMing for Muslin 3:

In Every Sewers Guide to the Perfect Fit, Morris & McCann indicate that if you need a FBA to add more than 2 inches total, you should do a second alteration. There has been some discussion about this on the PR discussion boards, since the revised Fit for Real People (fondly known among PR members as, “FFRP”) came out and Patti Palmer published an article about it in the Spring 2008 issue of Sewing Today. Basically, under the Morris & McCann method you do the well known FFRP FBA to add up to a maximum of 2 inches, and then you do a second alteration emanating from the upper chest/shoulder area and cutting through the waist dart to add another 2 inches. I worried that this alteration to the chest area would add fabric where I didn’t need it, as I don’t have much extra fluff above my full bust & I have sloping shoulders to boot. Morris & McCann make it seem as if 4 inches is the total maximum FBA you can do with this 2-step method, but the Palmer article in Sewing Today didn't seem to put any limitations on the amount. I guess if one needs an extreme amount to accommodate a full bust, one may have to compromise on the fit at the shoulders a bit.

Muslin 2 showed me that the fit is better in the neck & shoulders & upper chest with the smaller size. But I added too much with my FBA. Also the fit over the waist and hips is a bit more generous than I intended. The back and underarm/side seams need some serious attention. And at this point, I don't even know what size sleeve to cut. I think once I get the front & back fit worked out, I can just measure the AH opening and trace the closest size and alter it based on that measurement. Anyway, for Muslin 3 I will try the 2-step FBA, but I will also transition from one size at neck, shoulders, and armhole to the appropriate size(s) at the side seams for waist and hips. Maybe I can kill two (or three or four) birds with one stone?

Okay, I'm a bit tired of thinking about this project right now. Aren't you? I thought so! So later this week I'll post pics of some other things I'm working on.

Have you ever thought so much about something . . .

That you thought yourself out of the solution that was right in front of you? Well, my recent trip to the bra fitters threw me into a tailspin on what to do about my FBA. It has made for very restless nights when I should have been sleeping so I could wake up early, get through work and classes, and get back to the drawing board and some actual sewing! Instead I find myself dragging through my daily activities and not having the time or energy to sew at the end of it all, only to fall into a fitful sleep full of FBA calculations and R.I.M.M.s (redrafts in my mind). Anyway, I think I've got it now.
a. b.
a. draft based on chest measurement, with pre-bra fitting FBA & additional width added at side.
b. 2nd draft with post-bra fitting FBA, portion of dart rotated to side seam (but the horizontal dart is still humongo -- we'll just have to see how attractive that will be in fabric!).

Whatever the case, I'm tired of RIMMing so I'm going to sew up a second muslin this week. If (b) above doesn't work out, I'll try the Morris & McCann method from Every Sewer's Guide to the Perfect Fit (published in 1997 and republished as "Customize Your Sewing Patterns For A Perfect Fit" in 2001). In this method you do the regular FBA up to 1 inch (per side), then the follow with the second method to add another 1 inch (per side).

I don't know how strict those 1 inch rules are because I need about 2.5 inches to fully accommodate the Girls. Its going to have to be a bit of trial and error at this point. Also, I think I have to RIMM whether opening up the chest area above the bust will work for me, since I don't have much fluff up there, have sloping shoulders, and have already been contemplating adjusting for a hollow chest to get a better fit across the chest and shoulders. I'm not trying to overfit this shirt, but my RTW tops & jackets tend to collapse in that area and I just don't like that look.

Bra Fitting Woes

I thought I knew my bra size, but I decided to get a professional fitting anyway. I thought, if anything, getting a professional fit will confirm what I already know and tell me I'm on the right track with my fitting adventures. So I went to Loretta's Intimates -- a local lingerie shop that got into the business many moons ago helping cancer survivors and other people with their prosthetics needs. If Loretta's couldn't help me, I don't know who could.

I put on my best fitting bra for the trip to Loretta's:



Margaret, the fitting assistant, whisked me into a private dressing room and had me remove my top, but keep my current bra on. She whipped out her lying, cheating tape measure of doom and took a few measurements and then left to bring me some possibilities. She quickly returned with what I believe to be the ...LARGEST...bra I have ever personally seen in my life! All kidding aside, I know I am a blessed-in-the-bust, full-figured gal, so I've spent quite a bit of time searching for elusive well-fitting (and pretty) lingerie, but suffice it to say, I cried real tears when Margaret came back with this triple whopper!!

We all have certain perceptions of what we look like and this bra fitting put me face-to-face with a reality for which I just wasn't fully prepared. Poor Maggie! I think she saw my face crumple and the tears well up, so she quickly brought back another couple of options. I thought about tossing my t-shirt back on and fleeing the shop, but then I came to my senses and talked myself into believing that this experience would be good for me, my appearance, and my fitting and sewing. So, sucking it up through the tears, I tried on everything Margaret suggested -- a total of 10 different bras consisting of 3 different styles and 4 different band and cup size combinations. It was mind-boggling, but I ended up with great results:



In the t-shirt it may seem like a subtle difference, but I have to say, my new bras are amazing! The Girls are positioned up on my chest where they are supposed to be and there is 150% less stress on my shoulders from the weight. The bra band around my ribs is supporting everything -- the way it is supposed to be. I wore one of the bras out of the shop and ran errands all day in it. I've never worn something so comfortable and supportive in my life. I don't know why I waited this long to get professional help. If you've never had a professional bra fitting, I highly recommend you find a specialty shop in your area and get it done. No matter your size -- at Loretta's it was mainly the large busted, but there were a few members of the IttyBittyT**ty club there -- a good fitting bra is an eye opener!

As for my fitting challenges, I'll have to rework my FBA a bit based on these new measurements. I also anticipate that my posture will improve now that my shoulders have been relieved of the weight of the Girls. This may impact future shoulder, high back, and swayback alterations. We'll see what happens as I continue to work on my classic white shirt.