Biased About Bias

Just popping in on a quick break from my coat to preview the Ms Style Book that I just received in the mail last Thursday.

I haven't gone through it all yet, but as usual there is a lot of inspiration/eye candy. This one in particular caught my eye. On its face it looks like a plain jane sheath, good for throwing on at the last minute with some nice heels and a handbag and heading out to work on those "I don't have anything to wear and I'm late" days. But look at the draft! Very interesting! Straight grain for the left panel, bias for the middle panel, and cross grain for the right panel. I can see some really cool effects with a subtly (or not-so-subtly) textured woven. Of course, a plaid or stripe or symmetrical print would really pop.

Back to the coat muslin...

Processed: BWOF 11-2007-132A - Plaid Skirt

I'm just going to go ahead and call this one a done deal! It needs a good final press and I still have the hem to do, but its a wrap! Since its cut on the bias, I need to let it hang for a few days (or weeks) before I hem it. The instructions call for a satin-stitched hem/lettuce edge. I've worked up a few samples, but I'm not quite happy with them. I think I need to add some sort of wash-or iron-away stabilizer at the edge to hold the stitch. I also want to use a rayon or poly embroidery thread for added effect (read, "make a trip to JoAnn's" — at least thread is on sale through 6/21).

Down & dirty: This is BWOF 11-07-132A; a bias cut, A-line skirt with a wide contoured yoke (on the straight grain) and darts both front and back. I added extra room for my hips and abdomen and cut 1-inch just-in-case seam allowances. Burda and I both made it up in plaid, but it has enough shape & interest to be very nice in a plain fabric or a print. There is plenty of opportunity for topstitching, fabric piecing/chevron effects, or other embellishments.

Despite the time it took me to cut out and put this together, construction was quite easy. It is a skirt after all. The pattern is drafted so that the yoke is 7 pieces — 3 in front and 2 for each side of the back. I didn't want to mess with matching plaids across the yoke and I usually don't wear my blouses/tops tucked in, so I lined up and traced all the bits together to make 1 piece for the front and 1 for each of the back sides. As it turned out, I did need the fitting lines the original pieced yoke offered because I had to take in the darts in the front & extend them through my now 1-piece yoke. I also had to release the darts in the back, but couldn't carry that up through the yoke because I didn't have a seam allowance at that point. I was able to utilize the back center seam to tweak the fit of the waist and high hip.

On the lining, I skipped making the darts and sewed in soft pleats instead. I also fused my interfacing to the yoke lining pieces, rather than the fashion fabric, because I didn't want any bubbling.

Kudos to me: I think this is the best invisible zipper I've ever sewn! Invisible zips are easy with my handy-dandy #35 invisible zipper foot for my Bernina, but I always have trouble getting the first few stitches of the seam just below the bottom of the zip to lay right. This time it was easy-peasy. New/couture technique: I thread traced all of the seam lines. I did it to practice the technique on a garment without too many seams, but primarily to help with matching the plaid as the side & back seams. I don't think this is a techniques I'll use very often as it was labor-intensive, but it will be used if I ever get to the point of making a finely tailored garment. Despite finally figuring out during the making that this is not quite an "even" plaid and my waist-hip-abdomen fitting-on-the-fly, the plaid matching came out okay, IMO.Changes for next time? A tilted waist and/or sway back alteration? Move the back zipper to the side? Something for the high hip fluff? Something for the high, wide to low, less-wide booty? Does FFRP have a (Mercedes) "V-boot" alteration??? LOL!

Do You Swim?

I do. I love the water (oceans, rivers, pools, Jacuzzi, bathtubs, but not lakes - yech!). I'm a lazy athlete, so I thought I would pump up my pool time this summer by actually doing some swim workouts. I tried to remember some of the ones my coach made me do as a 'tween/'teen, but I guess my memory is getting more faulty the further away I get from those years. Thank goodness for the internet! Check out swimplan.com for free, customized swimming workouts. All you have to do is register, enter some of your swim stats, your pool length, and click on a few options and it will spit out a swimming program designed to match your needs. I have used a couple of them on and off for the past month as part of my cross-training effort, and I have to say that I feel that I am having a lot more fun with my lap swimming. No boring laps for me anymore! I only have two types of strokes in my repertoire that I use with any regularity. But Swimplan allows you to select strokes, equipment (bands, fins, boards, paddles), pace (slow, beginner, intermediate, master, etc.), and duration of your program. All of the plans include a warm up, build up, core, and warm down component. Depending on the options you choose, your personalized program will also include various intensity levels from easy to aerobic to endurance to sprint. Again, I'm a lazy athlete so none of my programs to date have included a "sprint." LOL! Check it out and build your own personalized swim workout. NAYY -- its just fun!

Just Coa[s]ting Along

I learned my lesson from the teal basketweave wool blend that I bought sight unseen and feel unfelt and ordered some swatches. So now the coat has gone from teal to tangerine. I purchased the gorgeous wool/cashmere blend coating in Bright Orange from Ann at Gorgeous Fabrics. And the creamy yellow diamond silk jacquard for the lining from Denver Fabrics.

I'm calling it a "burnt orange" since this is Longhorn country out here — University of Texas (Austin) Longhorns that is. I'm not an alum, but plenty of family and friends are. Burnt orange and white were my high school colors and the Longhorn was our mascot, so I think I have sufficient connection to co-opt the theme for my coat. Besides, when you wear this color in Texas, everyone assumes that affiliation anyway.

I also ordered some backup periwinkle wool/nylon flannel coating and an ivory silk jacquard from the same places, in case I really flub on the coat.

As for materials & supplies ...

• pattern (and back up patterns) - check!


• fashion fabric (and backup fabric) - check!


• lining fabric (2 options) - check!


• heavyweight muslin - check!


• underlining - still pondering (truthfully, waiting to see what others come up with)


• beeswax - check!


• hand sewing needles (betweens) - check!


• assorted hams & pressing tools (from stash) - check!


• matching thread - check!


• silk thread - check!


• gravity feed iron - check! (oh...wait...that wasn't on Marji's list)

This weekend, I'll be tracing off the pattern and figuring out any necessary tweaks to the flat pattern. I might also get the muslin cut out and sewn up, but I'm not sure yet. It is graduation and wedding season around here and I have 4 commitments this weekend alone!

Talk about Maxi!

photo credit: Vlisco

Wow! Now that's what I call maxi! Maxi sundresses are all the rage for this summer. I've been looking for a pattern that would work on a plus size and hope to use one of the African prints that is in my stash from my last trip "home". I'm still waiting for my June BWOF to show up in my mailbox, but from the preview on the website, I think this one or this one may be good starting points.

I'm In Love All Over Again!

Didn't get much chance to sew this weekend as it was my Dad's birthday. But in anticipation of possibly having to sew nice, consistent buttonholes on my coat for The Great Coat Sew-Along I dusted off SistahB's cousin and got in about an hour's worth of sewing on my plaid skirt. It was a real pleasure to sit down in front of this powerhouse and run a few seams after I reacquainted myself with all her bells & whistles.

My 1630 has been in storage for about 18 months now and I had thought about selling her because I don't really take advantage of her full potential. But how could I give up a machine that boasts over 200 stitch possibilities, including 12 sideways motion stitches, and 8 buttonhole styles?!?! Not to talk about how smoothly she operates and her beautiful stitches (though SistahB has her beat on the straight stitch, hands down).

Oh well! I guess I'll have to give up something else to pay for the new gutters for the house (maybe the gym membership??? I certainly don't use that often enough either!).

Secret Weapon for Summer Skin & a Recipe

If you've never heard: "d*mn, guuurrrrlll, you sure is ashy!" stop reading now & return to your regularly scheduled sewing/crafting project! LOL! Now that summer is here and we're all baring a bit more flesh, here's my secret for smashing summer skin (and its great for combating winter chap, too):
Sweet almond oil is odorless and not sticky or oily at all! No need to go all fancy with it, just pick it up on the oil/shortening aisle of your favorite well-stocked grocery store (e.g., Whole Foods, Central Market, Sprouts, etc.).

I use it in a number of ways, but mostly I just mix a few drops with my favorite body cream du jour and rub it in to my skin after a shower. You can use it stratight on your skin, but I like to incorporate the scent of my body cream, so I mix them. I also have been known to take a handful of sea salt, douse it with a splash of almond oil and rub the paste into my skin, paying particular attention to rough heels, knees, and elbows before jumping into the shower — voila! homemade salt scrub. The paste is also good for a quick mani/pedi if you don't have time to make an appointment with your favorite nail care professional. Remove old polish. Grab a handful of sea salt/epsom salts and a dash of almond oil. Rub it into your hands or feet, especially the cuticle area. Rinse with some mild hand soap, pat dry and rub in your favorite hand lotion (or more almond oil). You can swipe on a coat or two of clear polish if you like (but, swab the lotion/oil off of your nails with some polish remover first). Instant revitalization for tired looking hands and feet! Its also great for massages and can be used as a light hair oil. Of course, you can cook with it, too! It can take high heat and is great for sauteeing veggies.

One of my favorite bath salt recipes includes almond oil:

Homemade Bath Salts
Ingredients

• 1 cup Epsom salts
• 1/2 cup sea salt, optional (you can do all epsom or sea salt or a mix)
• 3-5 drops essential oil(s) of your choice (e.g., lavendar, bergamont, rose, jasmine, lemon, etc.)
• 1-2 T almond oil (you can use mineral oil, olive oil, etc., as long as it won't go rancid)
• dried herbs/flowers of your choice, optional (e.g., rosemary, lavendar, dried lemon/orange peel)

Instructions

• In a glass or metal bowl (don't use plastic or wood, they absorb odors), toss the salts, essential oil, and almond oil until well mixed. Using your hands to mix is the best method.
• Add additional essential oil and almond oil to suit your taste. The salts should be slightly shiny and on the translucent side when well mixed.
• Toss in dried herbs/flowers for a pleasing look.
• Dispense mixed salts into glass storage containers with tight-fitting, airtight lids.
• Run some bath water and Enjoy!

I store my bath salts in old wide-mouth mason jars I found while thrifting a few years ago. They have glass tops held on with a wire spring mechanism. Very cool! I recycle the scoops from powder detergent or drink mixes to use with my bath salts. I also have a scoop that is a sea shell from a potpourri gift I got years and years ago! LOL! Again, the bath salts can be used as above with some extra almond oil or coconut oil (expensive!) to make a body scrub or do a quickie mani/pedi touch up.

If you are not allergic to nuts, you should try out sweet almond oil sometime.

Yves Saint Laurent, 1936-2008: The Close of A Stylish Era

"Yves didn't like the word fashion that much, he liked style. ... What will be missing in the world of fashion is a total respect of the human being, of the woman."

— Lulu de la Falaise, Saint Laurent's studio assistant and a close friend for more than 30 years (source).

Studio Movie Grill: Great Concept, Poor Execution

Nice Concept
So my girlfriends and I went to a local Studio Movie Grill to watch SITC, have dinner and imbibe some adult bevs. SITC was excellent, the plot was ON POINT!!!, The fashion was ... FABULICIOUS (well, except Samantha's wardrobe! WTF???). Problem was Studio Movie Grill (SMG). SMG supposedly resolves the age old dilemma of "dinner before movie?" or "dinner after movie?" by allowing you to have dinner with the movie! They have a full dinner menu (American grill, anyway) and a full service bar. For SITC, they even put on "signature" drinks such as Carrie's Cosmo, Miranda's Strawberry Mojito, etc. Nice concept.

Horrific Execution
We got to SMG about 45 minutes before showtime (7:35 pm) and found that the movie was already seating (before the 7:00 pm show!). No problem. We got two great tables adjacent to each other. Other groups weren't so lucky. If you didn't get a table, your group was relegated to sitting in a row, shoulder-to-shoulder at a table height bar-like thing. Not so conducive to a "group" event, IMHO. Apparently, SMG had actually added 1 or 2 extra chairs to each row to increase the theatre's capacity (isn't that a fire code violation?). Those folks really were shoulder-to-shoulder!

While we were waiting, we ordered our adult bevs, popcorn, and a couple of other appetizers to start and began to peruse the menu. The waiter so kindly offered to bring us water "just in case." Thank goodness, because 30 minutes later all we had was water! The popcorn (drenched in un-ordered butter) showed up 15 minutes later (after the previews had started). At this point, the movie had started so we decided to go ahead and order food for fear of starvation.

hroughout the movie, the waiter for our area kept standing up in front of us while helping other customers. When we asked him to squat or kneel down, he replied snottily, "I'm just trying to do my job!" Of course, this was after we just witnessed him squat down to serve the ladies a few tables down from us! You got to figure on some noise/distraction at a place that serves dinner during the movie, but come on! I'm absolutely sure that those waiters are trained to squat, kneel, crawl, whisper, use mental telepathy, anything to minimize the disruption!!!

We finally got our food about one hour into the movie. And two of our group never got their signature drinks! Again, thank goodness for the "just in case" water! I didn't wait around to speak to the manager, but the head waiter for our theatre comp'd our appetizers and the dinners of those whose drinks never arrived. Even so, I'm planning a strongly worded letter to the management of that SMG location and to SMG corporate headquarters!

Blanket? Or Coat?

I took an informal poll of LilBro, DBF, and myself:

• blanket - 3


• coat - 0

Congratulations! It's a blanket! I bought this fabric from fabric.com for Vogue V2935, a short jacket by Sandra Betzina, that I intend to make during The Great Coat Sew-Along based on the online description that it was a wool blend coating and the pictured fabric "swatch" (see my earlier post here). Fabric.com described it as a "heavyweight coating" with a "wonderful texture" that would give your "coats and jackets extra appeal." Further, and this is where I really should have paid extra attention, "it's also appropriate for throws, pillows, and blankets!"

To fabric.com's credit, it is a wonderfully luscious fabric. Lively color, great drape & very soft and warm -- I'm actually contemplating straightening & binding or fringing the edges to make a couple of throws, rather than returning the yardage. It is just not what I imagined from looking at the online swatch. The texture of the basketweave is a bit ... umm ... more pronounced than I bargained for. I really don't want to use my backup options from stash, so it is back to the fabric drawing board. This time, I've ordered swatches!

Thread Tracing, My Way

BWOF 11-2007-132A has been on my table for the past few weeks. Because it is a plaid cut on the bias, I decided to cut it out in a single layer and attempt to actually match up the plaid at the seams, unlike Burda. I also decided that thread tracing the seamlines would be the best way to accomplish that feat, while allowing me try a new or couture technique.

Some folks thread trace with hand basting; others actually make a gazillion tailor's tacks! I went with the former, somewhat sloppy, hand-stitched basting approach. I also got a bit lazy on the yoke pieces and just traced the corners. I'm not sure how well this will work out in the sewing, but anything I do to the yoke will be much better than Burda did, IMHO.

After thread tracing by hand, I realized that I

actually have a tailor tacking foot for SistahB! I will have to try out her machine-made tailor tacks sometime soon. They look pretty cool. I hope they are as handy as they look! And as soon as I find some the elusive Bernina "magic needles," I will be able to machine baste, too. Woo hoo! Right now I just use the longest stitch length to baste up my muslins.